Monday, 29 August 2011

Postonja Cave Magic!

It was farewell Italy and hello Slovenia today as we continued east. It was amazing to see the countryside change quit literally as we crossed the border into the promised green, green, green scenery that is Slovenia.
The border through the reflection of the Aussie flag we have permanently positioned on the dash
Our first stop in Slovenia was a little south of the capital Ljubljana – a place called Postonja famous for its deep limestone caves. We began with a train ride from the surface into one of the large caverns to join an English tour.
Enterance to the dragons lair.... or just the cave entry
Intrepid explorers on the underground train
The stalagmites and stalactites were quite breathtaking forming all different shapes and colours depending on the speed of the “drip stone” (mineralised water and what it ran through in the soil before seeping into the cave.
Drip stone pillar - where stalegmire meets stalegtite and forms 1 solid rock pillar from ceiling to floor of the giganitc cavern
Locals apparently discovered the caves in 1818, although it is suspected that it was known of much earlier but people were too afraid of going in because of the legends of the dragons that lived within.

Dave's Cave

There WERE some creatures living inside although none anywhere near the size of a man eating dragon. One of the largest being the Proteus Anguinus, the pigmentless, eyeless salamander. We didn’t see any wild ones as they don’t like the lit parts of the cave where the tourists can go (it hurts their skin), but we did see some in an aquarium tank.
So far we were thoroughly impressed with Slovenia – and we had only been there for a few hours!
Next stop Ljubljana – the Capital!









The village of Postonja (well just the river anyway)

Venice - The last Days in Italy

Our last major Italian city – Venice.
Day 1.
We left early-ish from the campsite by an expensive ferry across the venice lagoon from Fusina to Venice. On arrival we were pleasantly surprised at Venice’s cleanliness and non-smelliness (we had heard stories).
Customs point and San Giorgio (in the distance)
We walked along the Canal della Giudecca to the Dogana (customs point of Venice). From here we had a good view across the canal to San Giorgio Island (Island of St George) – they really like their saints here in Venice!
We then headed around the point along the Grand Canal stopping off at Santa Maria della Salute – a church built in celebration of the end of the plague.
As well as saints Venice has a large collection of art galleries, mainly housing modern work. One of which, an exhibition called “From Asia to the rest of the World” was particularly weird as well as another (sorry can’t remember who the artist was) that featured comical painting and sculptures of well known figures eg. Batman with a topless wonder woman, self portrait of Mona Lisa and Adolph Hitler as a playboy bunny to name a few.
We continued to meander the streets and canals of Doso Duro finding a great corner pub with a view up along one of the canals.
The lunch table

Our view
Pont del Academia
The Grand Canal from The Pont del Academia
After refuelling on sandwiches and pizza we crossed the Pont del Academia into San Marco eventually ending up in the Piazza San Marco outside of the Basilica.
St Marks Square
Eew pigeon people
Today being a walking day we left the inside for tomorrow and continued making our way along the canals to the Pont di Rialto. This was a little like the Ponte Vecchio in Florence – lined by jewellery shops and swamped by tourists.
I love shopping!
Our mission was to get to the third bridge the Ponte degli Scalzi which i am happy to say we succeeded in.
Grand Canal from the Pont degli Scalzi
Dave, always on the big boat lookout, finds another in Venice
After this we made our way back to the ferry terminal, back to Fusina.
Our first day in Venice and we didn’t get lost!
Day 2.
We planned a later start today with the bulk of Venice covered on foot yesterday and some internet and Skype time required.
We arrived at lunch time and made a beeline for Piazza San Marco and the entrance line for the  Basilica.

Luckily like most cathedrals the line (which wasn’t as long as we had seen it yesterday) moved quickly and we were inside in no time. (just a little time to wrap myself in scarves so i would be presentable).
All ready in my church atire - fashion forward I think!
We joined a free tour in English led by Alex (another pommy church guide) and enjoyed the sites and Byzantine Gothic architecture including the extensively mosaiced surfaces of the cathedral walls and ceilings – mostly featuring stories of St Mark (of course).
An interesting mosaic series inside the church told the story of the stealing of St Marks body from Alexandria by Venetians. They hid it in a barrel of pork so that the Muslims wouldn’t check it. Once they had it safely in the crypt they thought it was all over... but oh-no a major flood caused the need for the removal of the relics. While rebuilding and remodelling the place the relics were stored “somewhere safe” and only known to a few special people. Problem was the rebuilding took longer than anticipated and the special few died in that time, taking the location of the relics with them. Luckily St Mark was pretty kind to the Venetians and appeared before the masses after they prayed for 3 days and let them in on the secret. Marks relics were found and are now safely housed under the main alter. They were last opened up about 10years ago when the king/sultan of Alexandria paid a visit and needed to touch them (as you do).
We also saw the jewel spangled Pala d’Oro – the gold altarpiece covered in priceless jewels as well as seeing the original 4 horse from the Basilicas facade (spoils of war from Constantinople in the 2nd Century AD) now having a rest from the elements inside.
View from the top of the Basilica
 We finished the afternoon with a visit to the Doge’s palace and the hotel Danieli (famous luxury Venetian hotel).
Dave at the Danieli
On the way back to the dock we grabbed our last official Italian gelati (although sadly it was a little disappointing) and said goodbye to Venice.

Thursday, 25 August 2011

...In Fair Verona where we lay our scene

The next day it was on the road again to “fair Verona where we lay our scene.” Luckily for us Verona has settled down a fair bit since the days of family feuding on which Romeo and Juliet is based.
Shakespeare aside, Verona is a really lovely city filled with beautiful buildings and some pretty exciting sites to see. First stop was the Casa di Gulietta – Juliets House, complete with a balcony overlooking the tiny courtyard into which hundreds of tourists jam themselves.
Juliet's balcony

The walls leading into the courtyard
 The walls leading into the courtyard are covered in the graffiti of lovers pledging undying love to one another. In a case of “everyone else was doing it” we added a little heart of our own (on the right wall as you walk in from the street 1/2way along, just above the ledge/seat).
Our addition

We got some pics on and from the balcony and checked out what the house would have possibly been like back in the day.

Daveo, Daveo. Where fore art thou Daveo
Oh there he is...
We then moved on along into the Piazza del Erbe (the old Roman forum) now and market area surrounded by impressive buildings housing designer shops.
This continued up the Via Mazzini – Verona’s premier shopping street, a prime spot for spending big bucks – Hermes, Gucci, Channel anyone?
At the end of the Via we reached the Arena di Verona, the 3rd largest amphitheatre (behind the Colosseum and one other) ever built by the Romans. Unlike the Colosseum however this one was in much better shape with a lot of the original structure still standing. They now use it as a summer opera house, currently they were preparing for... what else but Romeo and Juliet! Even though not nearly as big it was great to see an arena a lot closer to its former glory.
Dave at the outside of the Arena
The set for Romeo and Juliet
Inside seating
From Verona we continued to rack up the kilometres arriving early in the evening at Venice Camping Fusina. Another Contiki campsite. We joined in their beach party complete with sumo suit wrestling comps and wet t-shirt competitions. Dave loved the host and Italian guy with definite traits adopted from a careful study of Borat.

Friday, 19 August 2011

Medieval Cities of Italy - Assisi, San Marino and Bologna

Assisi
Today we sadly bid farewell to Roma to travel back northwards into Umbria. Our destination was Assisi, the birthplace of St Francis – the patron saint of animals. The trip once again took about 2-2 ½ hours, although this time we were pleasantly surprised by the quality of the Italian motorways, which were 2-3 lanes the whole way and toll free!
We checked in at Camping Village Assisi and had some lunch and did a quick load of washing (oh the fun of travelling). We ended up deciding to drive Mulder up toward the actual town of Assisi as the shuttle bus was really expensive and didnt run very often.
When we got up toward Assisi parking was at a premium so we parked in one of the underground parking stations (a whole other story happened here which i will leave to tell you in person)and set off on foot even further uphill toward the imposing Basilica di San Franceso.
This is actually 2 basilicas in one with the lower original basilica being built in 1230-32 housing the tomb of St Francis as well as 4 of his closes friars. Around the grate of the tomb people had stuck in photos of their loved ones, including a lot of pets that they wanted St Francis to look after.
The upper Basilica was built in 1232-39 ad continued on the humble but beautiful theme of the lower, the walls and ceilings covered in frescos (some had been damaged (we think maybe by the earthquakes).
Outside the upper Basilica there was a great view over the surrounding areas as the whole village is set very high.
The view
The old town of Assisi
We wandered the streets, again Assisi was the typical medieval town with shops containing local meats, alcohol and oil (olive) for which the region is famous, as well as the compulsory souvenir shops and many gelatarias.


The old city Piazza
We reached the central piazza and sat for a while until we decided to head back to camp with a storm threatening. On our way back to Mulder we made a quick pitstop at the La Bottega del Pasticcere to buy some hazelnut fudge. Unfortunately the 2 pieces of fudge ended up costing us 12, making tempers flare a little again – but it was yummy and will last us for a few desserts at least.

San Marino
A better day today. We had been advised by our Dutch friends from Florence to head to San Marino on our way north to Bologna. It was not far out of the way so we scheduled a stop.
San Marino as it turns out is an independent country (like the Vatican and Monaco). We arrived at the top of a high rocky outcrop and found San Marino – yet another medieval walled city.
Dave hits the streets of San Marino
When cruising the streets however we found the shops here were a little different to all the others we had encountered. There were some souvenir shops but they were far outweighed in number by the others. The other difference was that the streets were filled with people and EVERYONE was buying. Turns out the shopping was tax free and prices were very good – more of less like duty free in Airports or online.
You could buy alcohol (3 bottles for 5€), sunglasses, watches, jewellery (diamond studs about AU$1000 for ½ carat each ear! I made sure i checked up on this J), designer clothes and accessories, furnishings and... guns – heaps of them! Anything from old western pistols, plastic glocks to semi-automatic. If you wanted it you could get it, plus any other weaponary you may have needed such as swords (old style and samuri), knuckle dusters, knives and one or 2 grenades. A boys dream shopping whole the girls are off exploring the boutiques.

Some of the lovely boutiques

And some more... boutiques
A great view from San Marino
With the shopping out of the system we checked out ome of the impressive views – pity the day was a little hazy. A great find that we had never really knew anything about – GIRLS – you must come here for the shopping!

Bologna
After San Marino we continued North towards Bologna. We checked in at Camping Hotel Cita di Bologna.
We read thatBologna is the foodie capital of Italy and were keen to put the claims to the test so headed into the city for twighlight site seeing and dinner.
We checked out Bologna’s version of the leaning towers – here there are 2! Called the Due Torri. We then headed further into the city to the Piazza Maggiore and ajoining Piazza del Netuno with the very Muscular statue of Neptune in hte Fontana del Nettuno.
The due Torri - double leaning towers of Bologna
The very muscular Neptune
We found a little restaurant with a good view of the Piazzas and the mostly scaffold covered cathedral and settled in for canaloni and gnocci. We also tried the dessert of Grandmother’s apple cake (apple pie) and a lovely Italian Cabernet.
Dinner in Bologna
Bologna's city hall and public building
The food was nice but all in all we found Bologna to be pretty dirty and full of annoying hawkers trying to sell roses and annoying little toys (the same ones in every city). We were glad we only allocated 1 evening here.

Rome - City Sights and City Lights

The afternoon came and we headed off with Jonothan again in search of some of the lessor know, but amazing places in Rome including:
·        St Peter in Vincoli (St Peter in Chains Cathedral) housing St Peter’s chains – of course as well as another Michaelangelo masterpiece, a gigantic statue of Moses.

The chains of St Peter

Roman war memorial - where we started the tour

At the Roman war memorial one of 70 Roman poles details victories in battle for the iliterate people of the time - this is only 1 of the 2 left standing nowdays.
·        Church of the 12 Appostles built over the ancient Roman Temple of Minerva, complete with sacrificial alter in the crypt. The crypt also housed the remains of Saints Phillip and James – the cousins of JC as well as the Tomb where Micahelangelo was buried for 2 weeks before the Florentines broke in, opened the tomb, stole the body and took it back to Florence to be buried in the Medici family tomb
Relics of St James and Philip

The tomb from which Michaelangelo's body was pinched


Sacrifical alter from the temple of Minerva

·        The catecombs where St Paul was believed to have been locked for 4 years during his time in Rome. During this time the Romans still allowed Christians to come down and visit him.
The pillar to which it was believed that St Paul was chained
·        The Jesuit church of Pietra with a amazing painted ceiling as well as a painted cupola (inside of a dome) which was all a trick of the eye – the dome doesn’t really exist!

The painted dome - you cant really tell from the photo (nor on first look) but if you shift around the cathedral you notice that the centre of the dome always moves (like a painting whose eyes are always looking at you

The painted ceiling of the Jesuit cathedral
·        Piazza Navona – another Chariot racing venue come pretty square (with very expensive restaurants! Here was also the place where I has diahoreaed on by a bird on a previous trip to Rome. An finally
4 waters Fountain from the centre of the piazza
·        Pantheon – greatest Roman structure ever built with massive bronze doors. The temple is believed to have been one of the hiding places for Roman women and children when the barbarians invaded, even though the huge bronze doors were closed by mere women and children they were never breached by the invading forces – thanks to a bit of Roman ingenuity they ran on ball bearings making the very heavy doors very easy to manoeuvre.

The Pantheon
And finally
·        The Piazza del Pasquino – Piazza of the Barber. Named after a barber who used to anonymously write political satirical notes and stick them on the BC statue in the Piazza inciting city wide discussion and outrage from authorities. This forms the modern act of posting posters on walls, advertising and I guess nowdays – blogging (although mine is nt quite so anonymous.

Us with Jonothan our guide at the Really old Staue
Again we finished the day with a cold drink at the Tiber Bar – ahh this is the life!

Some... other sites of Rome - the Louis Vuitton store near the Spanish steps - even Dave was impressed by their red staircase
Our final day in Rome... sniff. We had planned today so that we could venture out of Rome’s centre, which largely closes down on Sundays 9which today was) and head out to the Appia Antica – the Ancient Appian Way built in 312BC to join Rome to the south. It was also here that Spartacus ( a recent favourite of ours after the TV series) and the rebelling gladiators and slaves were crucified – 6000 in total, by the Romans in 71BC
We had directions on how to get there using public transport, but encountered a slight hiccup with the train lines being closed for maintenance. Multiple buses later we arrived hot hungry and slightly disheartened by the length of time it had taken us to get there.
The Appia
We strolled some of the Appia (its pretty long) and then ended up visiting the Catecombs of San Callisto, the Christian burial grounds during Roman times. Christianity at this time was  still a punishable offence and people of the Christian faith wanted to be buried whole – like how Jesus was in tombs. The Romans didn’t like this idea at all and made them move outside the city walls where the Christians dug mazes of underground tunnels which contained around ½ million people including 6 early popes.

Ruins near the Catecombs
We were guided through the labyrinth by Father Owen – an Aussie priest. The passages were cold and dark (around 15deg),I certainly wouldn’t want to get lost inside its like a honeycomb of tombs. No skeletons or anything too gruesome but overall a pretty spooky place. Plus we were also told that back in the day the smell would have been pretty rank as bodies were only wrapped in the shrouds and then sealed in with a bit of terracotta (or marble if you were a bit more spesh).
After we got back into Rome we finished with some compulsory inner city sites (that I know you have all been waiting for) – The Spanish Steps, Trevi Fountain and trying to get into the Panthenon (it was already closed for the afternoon L).

The Pantheon - again

Throwing my coin into the Trevi Fountain to make sure i'll be back again

The impressive Trevi Fountain

The Spanish Steps - can you see them underneath all the people?

We headed down a side street near the Piazza del Pasquino to try and find the famous Baffeto Pizzeria. We waited around 2 hours and were treated with excellent pizzas – a definite for Roman tourist itineraries.
While we were enjoying dinner we met 2 Canadian girls – Samara and Sonya as well as an Italian Sandro and his 9 year old son Matteo from Bologna. We got to talking and ended up going for coffee at a great little place near the Pantheon – paid for by Sandro. Dave and I both loved it, even though neither of us are coffee drinkers. It was even a hardcore Italian espresso.
Our table at Baffeto
Me with old "Mr Bafetto" himself - he doesnt work, just watches the line outside his restaurant
After coffee cute little Matteo convinced us to go back to the Pantheon and Trevi again for night pictures – a great finish to Rome.
Dave being persuaded by Matteo to come to the fountain
Night pics at the Fountain
PS theadventure back to camping Tiber was a little rough – the trains had finished for the evening so 2 buses and a tram later we got to Prima Porta and had to walk the rest of the 1.5ks home. I was convinced we would be murdered, but luckily some fellow campers were there to keep us company (Dutch campers again – there is definitely a theme here, the Dutch love their camping!).